It’s 81 miles from Epping to Harwich, the Essex Way takes a network of old Saxon lanes, linking historic towns and villages, crosses Constable Country then follows the Stour estuary to the sea.
Mention Essex and the very first thing that involves thoughts wouldnât be mountain climbing. Sure there aren’t any mountains, and itâs primarily flat, but itâs one among the most unspoilt counties in England. The route could be executed in both route, taking round ten days, however Iâm hoping to do it in six, strolling from West to East.
Day 1 Epping to Saltâs Green 16 miles
I take the tube to the Epping, at the finish of the Central line, and set out into the countryside. Itâs raining closely and this makes the path muddy and treacherous. Iâm quickly in huge fields of wheat, one thing Iâll see lots of in the subsequent few days, in addition to beans, onions and apples.
Just earlier than Ongar, Greensted has the oldest picket church in the world, courting from 645 AD. This is the land of exceptional church buildings and later, in Willingale, there are two in the similar churchyard, apparently catering for various parishes.
Day 2 Saltâs Green to Great Leighs 12.5 miles
Essex has a labyrinth of inexperienced lanes, courting from Saxon occasions, tunnelling by means of woodland, and I comply with one to the historic village of Pleshey.
The fortress right here will get a point out in Shakespeareâs Richard II, however itâs lengthy gone, simply the mound and moat stay. Great Leighs has the worldâs largest producer of cricket bats, normal from Willow plantations rising on Essexâs many riverbanks.
Day 3 Great Leighs to Coggleshall 15 miles
More fields of wheat result in Terling the place the windmill has had its sails trimmed. Itâs now a wonderful home owned by a member of The Prodigy.
In the 18th century, there have been round 285 working windmills however now solely a handful stay. In Cressing, simply off the route, two exceptional barns constructed by the Knights Templar in the thirteenth century have been restored, together with the Tudor walled backyard. Coggeshall has its personal model, 40m lengthy, constructed for the monks of the abbey.
Day 4 Coggleshall to Great Horkesley 11.5 miles
Coggleshall marks the midway level with an engraved stone, subsequent to the stays of the abbey, now simply the small chapel of St Nicolas and the Abbotâs lodging.
I press on to the Colne valley and uncover a line of WW2 pillboxes constructed after Dunkirk to guard in opposition to German invasion. The path follows the fairly River Colne, at 36 miles the longest in Essex, to West Bergholt after which to Great Horkesley. The fields are stuffed with poppies, the official image of Essex.
Day 5 Great Horkesley to Mistley 14 miles
After days of degree strolling, I start to come across some ups and downs. Passing Dedham Vale winery, which produces remarkably good wines, Iâm quickly into Constable Country.
On the banks of the River Stour the mixture of sunshine, water and dappled greenery are actual dwell variations of his nice works. The painter was born in Dedham and, predictably is a magnet for vacationers. Still, itâs an excellent place to cease for a pint earlier than I wind my approach by means of Manningtree to the banks of the large Stour estuary and Mistley.
Day 6 Mistley to Harwich 12 miles
The day begins with the distinctive aroma of malt. Mistley has been malting barley since the seventeenth century and now has the largest facility in the nation. The path leads by means of the manufacturing unit yard, then throughout farmland, to tiny Bradfield.
Soon itâs again on the estuary banks earlier than heading south, previous Ramsey with its windmill, to the saltmarshes by the sea. Dovercourt has a protracted line of seaside huts and two distinctive iron lighthouses inbuilt 1863. The large cranes at Felixstowe loom on the horizon and I cross bathers earlier than arriving at Harwich. An indication on the lighthouse tells me Iâve reached my remaining vacation spot.
After six days of strolling, Iâve had most of the path to myself, aside from the occasional canine walker and definitely no different hikers. Thatâs a disgrace as the route offers a glimpse of an unknown rural Essex, nearly a snapshot of misplaced occasions, with its church buildings, historic barns, abbeys, castles and windmills. Of course itâs primarily flat however that makes for splendidly large skies, the clouds billowing up from the horizon. Best of all are the myriad nation pubs, at all times beckoning you in for refreshment.
NOTE: Although the route is fairly properly signed it is sensible to hold a guidebook and obtain a GPS observe. Accommodation is on brief provide on the route correct however Chelmsford, Braintree and Colchester are all simply accessible by bus or taxi.
Walking in Essex, printed by Cicerone is an indispensable information.
MORE INFO:Â Visit Essex has details about the county.
GET THERE: Greater Anglia has frequent practice companies to Harwich, Braintree and Colchester.
STAY: The County Hotel makes a snug base in Chelmsford with good meals.
Panfield House is a completely serviced cottage in Braintree Centre.
For a contact of luxurious, the Greyfriars Hotel is correct in the centre of Colchester.
The Mistley Thorn in Mistley is immediately on the route, has nice rooms and a very good restaurant.
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