On board Ambition with Ambassador Cruise Line to Hamburg and Antwerp from Tilbury, it’s a leisurely trip with lavender cocktails, hot chocolate and no kerfuffle.
If you hate flying or are fed up with all the queuing at international airports, boarding a ship at Tilbury Docks, a port on the River Thames in Essex in the UK is simple and stress-free.
The tides in the Thames Estuary allow ocean liners such as Ambition to moor close to London, within easy reach of the M25 and less than a mile away from Tilbury Town rail station. (There are seven other Ambassador Cruise Line regional UK ports, too.)
My mum and I shared one of Ambition’s 680 comfortable cabins (125 with balconies) and were soon settled and unpacked after being dropped off right next to the boarding ramp. Cruising to Hamburg and Antwerp for the Christmas markets on a five-night itinerary, with two days at sea, we familiarised ourselves with all the optional organised activities outlined in the daily bulletin.
First, of course, the Guest Safety Drill – gathering at various lifeboat points – and then a tour of the ship to check out all the facilities and find the nearest lift locations. It’s nice to get to know the cruise crew, who are almost always multinational. We learned Ambition’s Captain Oleksii, who smoothly navigated us across the North Sea, is from Ukraine and Green Sea Spa manager Sergei hails from Serbia.
Gala glitter on Ambassador Cruise Line
With our Ghent excursion and spa treatments all booked, it was time for some serious relaxing. The Nice & Easy Trivia quiz session lured us from our cabin and, once changed for the evening, we were ready for a little live music in one of the bars before dinner.
Chatting with other passengers in the comfortable Clifton Lounge, it quickly became our favourite “local”. We’d chosen an inclusive Drinks Package so quaffed an Ambassador Cocktail or two. Coloured purple to match Ambassador’s brand colour, it’s a heady mix of vodka, cranberry juice, Cointreau, lime juice and lavender syrup that goes down rather well.
The evening Palladium theatre show is a must-see and as a first-night performance, A Night In Nashville didn’t disappoint. Cruise ship entertainers are a professional and accomplished bunch that puts on a polished production. We early birds enjoyed the fun at 8.30 pm but you don’t have to rush. There’s a second showing at 10.15pm.
The Buckingham and Holyrood restaurants have waiter service for meals but you can always head to the Borough Market buffet if you’re feeling casual. One night to dress to impress is the Captain’s Reception and Gala Dinner. It’s a glittery and glitzy glamorous event.
Spicy Hamburg
Docking at Hamburg, we found the city under a covering of snow, looking decidedly festive. Tour guide Franck, on a coach transfer from the port, proved a lively and informative raconteur. During World War II, he explained, more than half of the city was flattened by Allied bombing raids. In 2023, King Charles visited the city and laid a wreath at demolished St Nikolai church to symbolise reconciliation.
By 1960, when The Beatles arrived, the historic ropemaker’s district along the Reeperbahn – a street following the Elbe river – had become a seedy red-light district lined with dive bars and strip clubs. The area is still an entertainment hub with new theatres, restaurants and art galleries. The Beatles’ auspicious time here is commemorated with life-size silhouettes in Beatles-Platz Square.
The largest of Hamburg’s lively Christmas markets is on Rathausmarkt Square next to the historic City Hall, with its distinctive green copper roof. Stalls offer glass baubles, local crafts, leatherwear, jewellery and all kinds of cakes and sweets. We sipped Glühwein from little ceramic mugs which were included in the price and became ours to keep as lovely souvenirs.
A happy cheerful “Dankeschön”(thank-you) is always appreciated and before sipping a drink with companions, it’s good luck to say “Prost!”.
Nearby, at the church of St Petri, over 200 illuminated fir trees decorate the site. This is the place to shop for handmade toys and to try some hearty currywurst: fried sausage cut into bite-sized chunks with curry ketchup. “There’s also adults-only Santa Pauli,” Franck told us. “Hamburg’s ‘hottest’ Christmas market.” So if you’re after really spicy presents you know where to go.
Antwerp and Ghent
Belgium’s port city of Antwerp dates back to the Middle Ages with Flemish Renaissance architecture and a mile-square Diamond District. Grote Markt is said to be one of the most picturesque town squares in Europe but Ghent, the historic capital of Flanders, is even prettier and just an hour’s drive away.
Ghent sits on a network of waterways and its heart is the confluence of two rivers. It’s a great destination for walking as traffic is diverted through tunnels rather than road bridges over the canals. On our scenic boat tour we are told 300 bicycles are hauled out of the water annually during dredging but that’s a fraction of the estimated 15,000 in Amsterdam.
The Christmas Market wooden booths run to the end of the Korenmarkt and there’s a seasonal Ferris wheel and roller rink. Belgium is considered “the chocolate capital of the world” and cacao arrived in the 17th century. Today quality chocolatiers work with sustainable cocoa and 100% pure cocoa butter. Speciality chocolates include dark chocolate filled with pistachio-flavoured marzipan and milk chocolate with tender praline.
Belgium is also renowned for its craft beers and for centuries monks perfected their brews in monasteries. Five Trappist Belgian beer producers continue to make artisan beers and these are experiencing a revival.
We sailed past the imposing Gravensteen Castle Of The Counts, a mediaeval fortification with intact moat, gatehouse and ramparts. This sinister edifice has a unique dungeon collection of torture equipment, now housed in the former pantry. Items include thumbscrews, spiked iron collars and branding irons. It’s a fascinating display but not as alluring as a seat in the sun and a glass of Chimay Gold Trappist ale with a hint of coriander.
No doubt the students who stormed and occupied the castle in 1949 over a new tax on beer would agree.
How much
Sailings for 2024 on an Ambassador Cruise Line no-fly cruise depart from London Tilbury, Edinburgh, Newcastle, Dundee, Liverpool, Belfast, Bristol and Falmouth. A festive getaway onboard Ambience on its German & Dutch Festive Sailing departs London Tilbury on December 8, 2024 from just £512per person.
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