In 13 years of dwelling in Botswana, I nonetheless discover myself amazed on the range of wildlife and landscapes the nation affords, with out having misplaced the sense of wilderness that enticed early explorers centuries in the past. It is unimaginable to see it multi function journey, so be selective. Budgeting for not less than three nights at every camp will guarantee you aren’t dashing from one place to the subsequent. Donât be fooled into pondering probably the most well-known locations are essentially one of the best â usually it’s the sudden moments that can lie lengthy in your reminiscence. Imagine watching hundreds of striped legs thunder throughout the Makgadikgadiâs emerald plains, for instance, because the solar dips beneath an idyllic palm tree-lined horizon with out a single automobile in sightâ¦
Unusually, the nationâs most-visited nationwide park is greatest appreciated from the water. The broad Chobe River is legendary for its swimming elephants, which commonly cross to feed on the luxurious islands, generally amassing in herds of 100 or extra. However, the remarkably relaxed hippos, colossal crocodiles and omnipresent fish eagles might be nearly as entertaining. As you watch troops of baboons frolic, or a herd of kudu method to drink, hold a watch out for the resident lion pleasure or a furtive leopard coming all the way down to the waterâs edge. For predator followers recreation drives are a greater guess, however the restricted street community in what’s Botswanaâs busiest park can get congested.
Most lodges do recreation drives within the morning and boat cruises within the afternoon, so one choice to keep away from the crowds is to do the alternative. Alternatively, if I’m going on the river within the afternoon my desire is to depart early or, if on land, do a full-day recreation drive with packed lunch, each of which guarantee we get to marvel at Chobeâs fascinating fauna in relative peace. Peak recreation-viewing is on the top of the dry season in September and October when, as the one water supply round, the river attracts animals from far and broad. After the rains, the panorama is much more engaging, however the wildlife disperses and, extremely, you could not see a single elephant.
Savute
Famous for its predators, immortalised in National Geographicâs Savage Kingdom sequence, there’s extra to Savute than the massive cats and canine for which it’s justly famend. I spent two years photographing right here whereas the ephemeral channel progressively dried up in 2015. It has not flowed since, as soon as once more concentrating the wildlife round a handful of pumped waterholes within the dry season. Here you may watch warthogs and jackals scampering round, attempting to sneak by a forest of elephant legs to grab a drink, whereas tawny eagles patiently anticipate flocks of quelea and doves to succumb to their thirst.
The uncommon panorama encompasses a chain of volcanic hills, whose caves and crevices are price scrutinising for leopards. After the rains, the treeless expanse often known as the marsh comes alive with flocks of carmine bee-eaters and raptors, swooping down to grab grasshoppers among the many lush grasses. At the identical time of 12 months, Savute performs host to a whole lot of migrating zebra whose distinctive brays echo throughout the marsh. Savuteâs solely draw back is that its location inside Chobe National Park guidelines out evening drives.
Botswanaâs iconic World Heritage Site is a mecca for wildlife 12 months-spherical, courtesy of the fortuitous timing of an annual flood which replenishes channels and swells rivers simply when pure rain-stuffed pans are drying out. Consequently, considerably counter-intuitively, as a result of the Okavango is fed by rivers originating in Angola, the Delta is at its wettest in the midst of the dry season â round June â a number of months after the rains have completed. At this time, you may count on your recreation drives to contain daring, bonnet-excessive water-crossings. Or for a extra sedate expertise, drift noiselessly in a mokoro (dugout canoe) when you watch pink lechwe run by lagoons spraying a cascade of shimmering water of their wake.<
Ebb & Flow
How is the Okavango Delta created and the way does that have an effect on the wildlife?
Angolan rain
As early as October rain clouds deposit their load over the Angolan highlands, greater than 1000km away. Over the subsequent few months the ensuing water slowly flows into Namibia and on to Botswana.
Forests and supply lakes
In Angola, miombo forests unfold throughout the headwaters of 4 rivers. The forests play an important function in filtering the rainwater into peat-based mostly supply lakes. These can maintain ten occasions extra water than a standard wetland, guaranteeing a relentless circulation into the rivers.
The Cubango River delivers the primary pulses of the annual flood between January and March. A second peak happens between April and May when water, predominately from the Cuito River, is slowly launched into the Delta.
The Delta receives a median of 9.4 cubic kilometres of water annually.
Panhandle and swamps
The Panhandle marks the start of the Delta. Here, the amount, pace and top of the circulation are at their best, with water ranges fluctuating by as much as two metres. Permanent swamps, protecting round 6000 sq km, lengthen from the bottom of the Panhandle. From right here the floodwaters create seasonal swamps (May-September), the expanse of which differ enormously from 12 months to 12 months (from 4000 to 8000 sq km), relying on the quantity of rainfall.
The water right here is usually lower than half-a-metre deep, resulting in the formation of short-term islands â some not more than a molehill, others giant and closely vegetated.
To the desert
In July/August, the flood reaches the seasonal Thamalakane River, the Deltaâs principal outlet. The water then pushes into the Boteti River and the Kalahari, ending at Lake Xau within the Makgadikgadi Pans â although this solely occurs in years of heavy rainfall and even then it’s quick-lived, shortly draining and evaporating.
Private concessions
The bulk of the Okavango is split into huge personal concessions, every of which usually entertains not more than three lodges. These provide the final word in exclusivity and isolation, to not point out a few of the continentâs greatest recreation viewing. Most have a most of 10 rooms, entry is just attainable by mild plane and you’re unlikely to see a automobile from one other camp. This comes at a value and the price of a few of the uber-luxurious lodges would possibly deter all however the exceptionally nicely-heeled.
As the animals are free to wander all through (there aren’t any fences between concessions), there’s infinite selection. Stick to conventional recreation drives or go for a safari by foot, boat, mokoro, sizzling-air balloon and even horseback â all are attainable relying upon the camp and the encompassing habitat. Since these concessions should not in a nationwide park, evening drives are attainable and you can too drive off-street, which supplies you additional flexibility.
Given the overwhelming alternative, I like to recommend you ebook with an agent who has particular data of the person camps.
Khwai Community Area
With a powerful density of predators, wholesome elephant inhabitants and a everlasting river inhabited by hippos, crocodiles and quite a few waterfowl, this group-run concession not often disappoints. I’ve had a few of my greatest sightings right here, from swimming lions to searching leopards and a very ferocious battle between a tenacious pack of untamed canine and an unlucky lone noticed hyena.
With campsites for impartial travellers and cellular safari operators, and a clutch of lodges catering for the complete spectrum of budgets, the one detrimental is that accessibility is sort of too straightforward, so it could actually generally really feel fairly busy throughout peak season. I want the shoulder seasons (April-May or November-early December). Although you could encounter the occasional bathe, you’ll not solely keep away from the crowds, but additionally profit from decrease costs.
Moremi Game Reserve
As southern Africaâs first wildlife reserve to be put aside and run by the area people, Moremi has a heritage that matches its wildlife credentials. This is the one Big Five nationwide park in Botswana, though rhino are seldom seen. Sightings are typically greatest within the dry season, however Moremiâs actual attraction is its range â from thousand-sturdy buffalo herds to flocks of fishing storks, you by no means know what’s across the subsequent nook.
I significantly benefit from the surroundings: verdant floodplains and saturated marshland interspersed with mopane woodland. Dead tree island is hauntingly lovely.
Covering one third of the Delta, there is no such thing as a scarcity of area and an in depth street community ensures it’s straightforward to flee different autos. Mobile operators and impartial travellers can select from a collection of campsites, whereas a handful of fly-in lodges cater for much less finances-aware vacationers. Although evening drives should not permitted, a ship station affords respite for automobile-weary travellers.
Panhandle
The northern Delta, often known as the panhandle, is probably not famend for large recreation however it’s a paradise for birders and anglers, in addition to anybody looking for a break from the pre-daybreak get up calls on the safari circuit. This is an opportunity to understand the finer particulars of the Delta, and maybe catch a uncommon sighting of a sitatunga or Pelâs fishing owl. Lodge actions revolve round boats or guided walks, or alternatively, drift downstream on a houseboat for a couple of days.
Fisherfolk ought to time their go to with the barbel run â occurring round September to October â when receding floodwaters pressure baitfish into the primary river channels, attracting a bunch of barbel (catfish), tigerfish, bream and a plethora of birds.
A 12 months within the Delta
January
The top of the wet season sees scores of migrant fowl species and vibrant backdrops.
February
Heavy rains stimulate lush vegetation; birds are in abundance.
March
Rains nonetheless heavy; most summer season avian guests go away.
April
Rains abate; the flood peaks within the Panhandle; nights develop into cooler.
May
First wave of the flood reaches the central Delta, coinciding with impala rutting season; breeding elephant herds transfer north.
June
Wild canine begin to den; vegetation takes on a impartial winter colouring.
July
Flood peaks in central Delta inflicting some wildlife to develop into stranded on islands â a good time for recreation viewing.
August
Thinning vegetation aids recreation viewing.
September
Wild canine go away dens with their pups, nesting carmine bee-eaters arrive in north Delta; leopards lurk in timber ready for impala to feed on fallen sausage tree flowers.
October
The hottest month, as much as 40C; quickly evaporating water concentrates wildlife round remaining water sources.
November
Periodic thunderstorms; first summer season migrant birds arrive; birthing season for plains recreation.
December
First rains begin to fill pure pans, bush is remodeled into lush inexperienced canvas; foals, calves and lambs abound.
Central Kalahari Game Reserve
With its comparative lack of autos and timeless sense of uncooked wilderness, the Central Kalahari most likely ranks as my favorite park in Botswana. Everything right here is tremendous-sized: from the reserve itself (the second largest in Africa), to the spectacular Kalahari black-maned lions, and the by no means-ending, cavernous skies. Watch in amazement as springbok pronk a number of metres above the silky grasses like Mariinsky ballet dancers in an effort to discourage the canniest of hunters. In the night, the lilting refrain of barking geckos â one in all Africaâs most quintessential soundtracks â will perpetually remind you of nights within the Kalahari.
The greatest time to go to is round April, after the rains, when the luxurious valleys entice giant herds of springbok and gemsbok, engaging lion, leopard and cheetah. This is one of the best place within the nation to see the latter, however I’m equally enamoured by the indefatigable honey badgers, perpetually digging for edible treasure, and the undeniably cute bat-eared foxes that litter the pans.
Linyanti, Kwando and Selinda
These sprawling, neighbouring concessions are greatest visited through the dry season, when wildlife congregates across the everlasting Kwando and Linyanti rivers â the precursors to the Chobe. In Selinda, the first water supply is the expansive Zibadianja lagoon, along with the Selinda Spillway, which flows solely in occasions of excessive flood. Game-viewing all through might be on a par with a few of the greatest within the Okavango, with good populations of lion, leopard, wild canine and, to a lesser extent, cheetah, in addition to all the standard herbivores. Although a small part of Linyanti is accessible to self-drivers, the concessions are predominantly the area of luxurious fly-in lodges.
Nxai Pan
Often bypassed, this little gem of a park has the potential to punch above its weight. In the dry season, when the motion revolves round a single pumped waterhole, wildlife viewing generally is a little unpredictable. But on a very good day you would possibly discover springbok, oryx or giraffe operating the gauntlet previous a resident lion pleasure, solely to then have to barter a bunch of belligerent elephant bulls earlier than they will lastly quench their thirst.
In the inexperienced season, springbok and gemsbok numbers swell and the pans are awash with herds of migrating zebras and wildebeest. This is the optimum time to go to, when along with the desert stalwarts you have got an inexpensive likelihood of seeing cheetah and even leopard. To this present day, my leopard sighting right here from over a decade in the past nonetheless ranks as one in all my most memorable. With only one lodge and a handful of campsites, there is no such thing as a hazard of overcrowding.
Located round 45 minutes from the first recreation-viewing space, Bainesâ baobabs is a cluster of seven colossal, magnificently gnarled timber, perched on the sting of a stunning white salt pan. If you’re staying at one of many close by campsites, come right here within the late afternoon to marvel because the majestic giants flip crimson within the setting solar.
Makgadikgadi National Park
My first 12 months in Botswana was spent on the sting of the Makgadikgadi salt pans, whose surreal, stark magnificence nonetheless takes my breath away. Devoid of vegetation, the pristine pans might be explored by single or multi-day quad bike expeditions, which enterprise so far as Kubu Island â a granite outcrop rising like a legendary fortress. Despite the obvious lack of life, the pans are an vital breeding website for hundreds of better flamingos.
The neighbouring nationwide park is legendary for huge herds of zebras, which clamber down steep, dusty cliffs to drink from the Boteti river within the west of the park within the dry season. After the rains, they migrate east, filling the picturesque grasslands, attracting lions and cheetah in tow. Here you may also spot a shy brown hyena or a clan of meerkats, a number of of which have been habituated. The restricted variety of lodges and campsites ensures the park by no means feels busy, particularly within the east, the place it could actually generally really feel like you have got the entire place to your self.
Northern Tuli Game Reserve
Located removed from the nationâs different nationwide parks, this amalgamation of personal reserves is nicely definitely worth the effort of getting right here and is more and more standard with self-drivers crossing over from South Africa.
Scenically beautiful, the panorama is in contrast to wherever else within the nation. Ancient riverbeds and rolling valleys meld into riverine woodland dominated by gigantic nyala timber, whereas towering kopjes and basalt cliffs create a dramatic backdrop.
Wildlife sightings are equally spectacular, significantly of lion, leopard and cheetah. In addition to its wholesome elephant inhabitants, Tuli is a superb place to identify eland and klipspringer, two of the least widespread antelope species.
Although there aren’t any public campsites, a number of lodges cater for quite a lot of budgets, providing horseback, strolling and cycle safaris in addition to recreation drives, whereas the bottom-stage hides will excite even the reluctant photographer.
Khama Rhino Sanctuary
A conveniently situated stopover within the east of the nation with a variety of lodging, this sanctuary was created to guard and assist breed Botswanaâs rhino inhabitants. Although the animals are free to roam, it’s the closest you’re going to get to a assured sighting.
Kgalakgadi Transfrontier Park
With its sandy roads and restricted services, Botswanaâs aspect of the Kgalakgadi Transfrontier Park is a draw for the adventurous traveller, with one vacationer lodge and services for self-enough campers. Resident wildlife contains all of the desert specialists, together with black-maned lions. But the true attraction lies in its rugged terrain and the sense of wilderness and isolation.
Oteng Othusitse (OT), information at TaShebube, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is a magical place of pink sand dunes, a panorama occurring perpetually, star-crammed evening skies, black-maned lions, cheetah, leopards, brown hyena and bat-eared fox in addition to small mammals just like the Cape fox, aardwolf, African wild cat, floor squirrel and mischievous meerkats. Of the 80 raptor species recorded in southern Africa, 52 have been seen right here. And letâs not overlook the desert orchestra â rodents and lizards similar to whistling rats and barking geckos, which hold the desert awake at evening with their chirping and whistling sounds. It is a reminiscence you’ll all the time carry with you; your coronary heart will perpetually be within the desert.
Tsodilo Hills
In a rustic devoid of contours, the 4 Tsodilo hills loom as giant as a variety of mountains. Ranging from a brief, leisurely hike to a full-day expedition, all are climbable with a neighborhood information, relying in your health stage. Not solely do the peaks provide stupendous views over the encompassing panorama, they’re a cultural treasure trove, containing over 4000 particular person bushman rock work, courting again so far as 800 AD. Other proof of human habitation extends again 100,000 years and the religious significance of Tsodilo remains to be appreciated by the ancestors of these early settlers, who act as guides in the present day.
Gcwihaba caves
A favorite vacation spot of the previous president, these distant, seldom-visited caves will reward decided travellers with some spectacular stalagmite and stalactite formations. Bring a torch and remember to rent a information to make sure you donât get misplaced.
Willem Barnard , Penduka Safaris
Botswana has been blessed with a steady authorities since Independence, which has led to a optimistic surroundings for tourism. Although there are challenges, Botswana retains huge undeveloped areas the place wildlife roams freely. Some elements of northern Botswana have develop into very talked-about, nonetheless many areas nonetheless exist the place you could find solitude and the true spirit of years passed by. Thanks to my father, I’ve all the time liked the Kalahari probably the most, however it’s nonetheless arduous for me, having grown up on safari and after 33 years of guiding, to advise a primary-time customer. Some folks merely need to see their first giraffe, elephant or lion, whereas I’ve seen them a whole lot of occasions over. But actually Moremi will all the time impress; additionally Savuti with all its harshness and abundance of recreation.
Maun secrets and techniques
Our insider ideas should youâre passing by Maun
Make a basketÂ
At Quality Baskets you may discover ways to make one of many nationâs most well-known exports in a half-day basket weaving workshop, or just select one of many huge vary of designs to take residence with you.
Soak up a sundownerÂ
Okavango River Lodge and The Bridge are favorite sundowner spots, combining a relaxed atmosphere and engaging setting with hearty meals and a sensible choice of drinks.
Take a mokoro journeyÂ
If you aren’t travelling into the Delta, then a single or multi-day mokoro tour provides you with a style of the Okavango, and you could even see an elephant. Access to the mokoro station is both by boat or automobile, relying on water ranges.
Nhabe MuseumÂ
This compact, centrally-situated museum is greatest visited when exhibiting a particular exhibition, throughout which it shows native artistic endeavors, sculpture and images.
Okavango Music FestivalÂ
Held close to a distant village round 20km from Maun in August annually, this three-day competition boasts a bunch of worldwide bands and an array of different leisure. Tickets have to be bought prematurely.
Movie evening at Motsana CentreÂ
Most Thursdays, Maunâs revolutionary âcinemaâ exhibits an ever-altering collection of latest DVD releases on an enormous display screen, which you’ll get pleasure from from the consolation of cushion-stuffed armchairs and cushty sofas.
This characteristic first appeared in version 87 of Travel Africa journal. To purchase this difficulty, please click here, or to subscribe and obtain future printed copies of the journal, please click here.
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