If you’re planning on heading to Europe this season but you’ve been taken aback by the staggeringly high prices and reports of mass tourism even as summer peters out, hear me out:
Instead of jetting off to Barcelona, where you might be welcomed to ‘Go Home!‘ chants, or Dubrovnik, a coastal citadel turned Disneyland for adults, with all the queuing and shoulder bumping that that entails, how about you head over to Mostar instead?
Europe’s best-kept secret, this fairytale town in Bosnia-Herzegovina is home to a surprisingly high concentration of historic landmarks, and with its balmy weather, crystal-clear river and cheap prices, it’s just the perfect fall getaway:
Why You Should Visit Mostar In The Fall
If you’re a Europhile like me, you’ve probably seen this iconic view of Mostar’s arched bridge spanning the turquoise watercourse at some point, and no, it doesn’t belong somewhere in Spain, and certainly not neighboring Croatia.
One of the most iconic bridges in Europe, if not the most emblematic, is located in a quaint riverside city in Bosnia-Herzegovina, a small, overlooked Southeastern country most Americans have been sleeping on for decades:
Unlike other European tourism hotspots, Mostar is largely ignored by first-time visitors to Europe, and even returning travelers, even though it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site home to diverse communities and rich medieval and Ottoman heritage.
From the reconstructed Mostar Bridge, an exact replica of the 16th-century crossing that got bombed during the war, to the nearby Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque, with a towering minaret boasting breathtaking views of the cityscape, tourist sites here rarely ever feel crowded.
This includes the equally picturesque Crooked Bridge, a more intimate version of the Old Bridge without the busy flow of pedestrians, the abandoned Neretva House, a symbol of the Bosnian struggle, and Kajtaz, an Ottoman-era house preserving timeless oriental furniture.
Besides the evident architectural value, Mostar is incredibly pleasant to visit between September and October: the average daily high temperature is 82°F, dropping to lows of 50°F overnight, and it’s still shorts weather out without it being flaming hot.
If you’re lucky enough, you might see locals taking that vertiginous leap from the Old Bridge into the crystalline waters below––it’s an expected act of bravery of every native young man and one of the coolest rites of passage to witness.
On both sides of the bridge, there are winding cobbled lanes leading to ethnic bazaars and secret courtyards––and between us foodies, a gem of a traditional eatery or two.
An Affordable Cultural Getaway
During my short 2-day stint in Mostar, my favorite restaurant was Lagero, not only for the priceless views of the Old Bridge, but mainly their surprisingly-affordable menu, with prices ranging from only $5 to a reasonable $28.
At the pricier end of the range, I’m talking a sumptuous three-course menu, and probably the best ćevapi you’ll try on your trip.
If you’re looking for a truly immersive medieval experience, the rustic Timber & Stone Tavern is the place to go: big fan of the traditional attire and their baked aubergine stuffed with chicken, and I actually didn’t mind being the nightly fanfare and kitschy chivalric theme.
Now, for incredible native trout and an innovative fusion of European and Oriental cuisines, head over to Restoran Hindin Han in the heart of the Old Town: not only is staff unbelievably friendly, it is great value for money, with dishes priced $3-17.
Overall, Mostar is one of the most affordable destinations in Europe this fall: according to Budget Your Trip, tourists spend an average of $27 on meals per day, owing to cheaper consumer prices and an abundance of homegrown products.
When it comes to accommodation, the median hotel price per night is a reasonable $75; at the same time, an overnight stay at the four-star Hotel Bristol will set you back by $51 in mid-October, going as low as $13 for a shared dorm room at Hostel Dada.
Naturally, it all boils down to your profile as a traveler, whether you’re on the budget, mid-range or luxury side, and the level of comfort you seek.
How Safe Is Mostar?
If you’re old enough to remember the Bosnian War of the nineties, you may be wondering how safe Mostar is to visit in 2024.
As the U.S. State Department itself declares, pretty safe, as Bosnia-Herzegovina is considered a Level 2 destination, meaning Americans are not discouraged from visiting, and your biggest concern here is pickpocketing.
Speaking from personal experience, the risk is still pretty low: walking central Mostar, I never felt on edge or as if passersby were a threat.
Quite the contrary: it was often friendly locals I would encounter and a hospitable community that’s genuinely excited to host new visitors.
That being said, local history is complex and involves many sectarian conflicts, so I strongly advise you to read up on it prior to visiting.
Warfare is in Bosnia’s past, but the scars of battle are everywhere to be seen around the Old Town, be it the bullet holes in storied buildings or the rusty tanks in someone’s back garden, and the best way to explore Mostar’s past––and understand its present––is booking a guided tour.
Running on a duration of 2h30, Sheva’s walking tour departs from the Hamman Museum twice every day, at 9:30 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. and visits all of the main points of interest, without a fixed price: from $10 to $50, you decide on the guide’s reward depending on how satisfied you are.
Piece of advice?
Wear your comfiest shoes, as there’ll be a lot of strolling down broken cobblestones that day, and make sure you bring a water bottle and sunscreen: even in the fall, when temperatures are in theory cooling down across Europe, that Balkan heat remains unforgiving.
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