The country of over 6,000 islands, surrounded by the teal-colored waters of the Aegean Sea and boasting a rich ancient heritage, Greece is one of the hottest destinations to visit this year, both literally and figuratively, with one (huge) caveat:
Santorini, Mykonos and the like are all succumbing to mass tourism, and between the surging accommodation prices and the unmanageable crowds, Greece’s most iconic island duo might not be the idyllic summer getaway you’ve been hoping for.
Luckily for the crowd-wary tourist, Folegandros is a paradisiacal island that’s not on everyone’s radar, offering some peace and quiet and postcardy towns without the Santorini crowds:
Like Santorini… Except Far More Authentic
One of the smallest, lesser-known islands in Greece, Folegandros covers a surface area of only 12 square miles, and though it belongs to the Cyclades, the same island group Santorini is part of, it sees none of the overwhelming crowds:
With a population of just over 700 inhabitants, it’s been rather successful at keeping safe from the spoils of internationalization, and that’s a rather impressive feat, considering its proximity to Santorini, a short 50-minute ferry ride away, and other tourism hotspots.
In fact, it’s one of a select number of islands Greek locals themselves go to escape Greece’s foreign clientele, with local travel agency Greeka noting it’s remained ‘relatively untouched‘ by international tourists.
Similarly to Santorini, Folegandros is volcanic in nature, with towns built across tall cliffs, a rugged coastline interspersed with fishing villages and beaches of shingle and golden sands, and a typically Greek, arid hinterland sprinkled with olive and cypress trees.
Contrary to its celebrity sister, however, Folegandros is not somewhere you go to party until dawn: there are a limited number of beach bars around and certainly no fully-fledged nightclubs of Santorini’s stature, like Koo or Enigma.
Instead, it appeals to tourists keen on slowing down, sampling traditional Greek food without the exorbitant prices, and soaking up nature without the constant distraction of pesky beach vendors and stag weekenders.
Picturesque Whitewashed Towns And Beaches
Chora, the main town on the island and its small capital is the dictionary definition of Cycladic architecture. Its winding streets are flanked by low, whitewashed houses, vividly blue doors and shutters, and ornate arrangements of bougainvillea crowning narrow passages.
Sitting atop a 200-meter cliff, Folegandros is easily one of the most scenic towns in Greece.
You’re likely to hear Greek walking about, though foreign tourists do come on occasion.
Folegandros’ lingua franca remains that of the natives.
There are not that many settlements outside Chora, though if you’re looking for an authentic village completely untouched by tourism, the inland Ano Meria is a short 7-minute drive, as is the coastal Agali, best known for its fine white sand beach.
Other than its typical rural character, Folegandros charm lies in its largely-undeveloped coast: beaches like Katergo, Livadi, Latinaki and Livadaki only have a small number of lounge chairs available, if any at all, as most do not have tourist amenities.
This means you get to actually be out in the wild Greek nature without the habitual social constraints, and certainly away from the buzzing crowds: there’s even a lesser-known nudist spot on the island called Galifos, certain to appease the odd naturism enthusiast.
Hotels Are Cheaper Here Than In Santorini
Folegandros may be cheaper to visit than Santorini, but that does not mean it is cheap: if you’re looking for a budget-friendly Mediterranean getaway, it’s offbeat Albania, or perhaps Montenegro you should be considering.
Now, if living out your Mamma Mia fantasy and trying original gyros is non-negotiable, Folegandros may be your best: it’s not crowded, prices are within reasonable ranges, locals are friendly and welcoming towards guests, and the island is perfectly walkable:
Walking from the northernmost end to the southernmost tip will take you just over 3 hours, and even shorter if you’re driving or motorcycling: renting an ATV from Donkey Scooters costs only 45 euros or around $49 per day.
As for hotels, the privately-managed Meltemi guesthouse costs an affordable $116 to book per night, though availability may be limited, while a whole studio at Folegandros Apartments, within walking distance of both Chora and will run you up $203.
If you’re looking for a little more comfort, the more upscale Blue Sand Boutique Hotel & Suites in Agali will set you back $295 per overnight, and the best thing is, it’s only 2 minutes walking from the landmark Agali Beach.
How To Get To Folegandros This Summer
To get to Folegandros this summer, the most convenient option is flying into Santorini, the nearest island with an international airport, and catching the ferry there: they leave every day, and the price range is $7.62 to $103.60, depending on the company and length of journey.
Although the fastest ferries take only 50 minutes to complete the crossing, they are usually far more expensive. Seajets sells seats from $75.86, or the equivalent in euros; if you don’t mind traveling for longer to save money, Zante Ferries takes 2h55, with tickets costing a negligible $7.62.
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