A picturesque lake set against the backdrop of the Southern Alps, Lake Como is one of the most popular destinations in Italy.
It is where you’ll find all of those gorgeous Baroque villas that keep popping up on your Instagram feed, the postcardy pastel-colored towns and lush nature.
On the downside, it can be pricey and very crowded, even in the fall.
Visitors will continue swarming into Varenna’s narrow streets, ruining the idyllic vibes, Villa del Balbianello will not cease being Instagrammable because summer’s over, and you might as well give up on trying for the perfect picture in Bellagio unless you’re there are like, 6 AM.
Not all hope is lost, however, as there is an alternative if you’re keen on experiencing Italian culture and living la dolce vita on the banks of Como undisturbed:
Authentic Italian Culture In One Of The Country’s Busiest Destinations
This upcoming season, the idyllic lakeside town of Lecco is where you should be headed.
Despite being a short half-hour drive from Varenna, it is a hidden gem visitors tend to bypass, even though it’s one of the largest and most important settlements on the lake, with around 47,000 inhabitants and a well-developed tourism industry.
Located on the southeastern shore, it is flanked by magnificent mountains, including Monte Resegone and Monte Barro, which offer sweeping views of the winding lake and can be summited on foot.
Piani d’Erna is accessible by cable car, with round-trip tickets costing around $11.
The pedestrianized center is famous for its art galleries, numerous gelaterie––Gelati Toldo serves the creamiest, lactose-intolerant-friendly ice cream in town––charming squares and heritage buildings, most notably the Basilica di San Nicolò.
Built as early as the 11th-century, originally as a Romanesque church, it received a Baroque makeover from the 19th-century onward, including the addition of the now-unmissable belfry, dramatically rising above the maze of car-free lanes that is the Old Town.
With this much beauty and historical value, you would think Lecco has already succumbed to overtourism yet unlike many of its Como counterparts, it remains (mostly) unspoiled.
Why Italians Themselves Love Como
It Feels Far More Authentic
It does have its fair share of traditional family-owned restaurants and photogenic corners that would typically attract the hordes, but it’s definitely on the quieter end of Como, with a visible absence of tacky souvenir stalls selling overpriced magnets.
We’re not saying Lecco is exactly crowd-free––whether it’s Amalfi or an offbeat island, nowhere in Italy is at this point––but it is undoubtedly more offbeat, and for years now, it’s been Lombardian’s own safe haven for beating the seasonal crowds, which continue to surge well into the fall period.
In essence, Lecco feels typically Italian without all the added fluff, tourist traps, and unjustifiably high prices.
Granted, nightlife is close to non-existent, and this isn’t somewhere you go for higher-end shopping––instead you’ll find your usual H&Ms and Calzedonias––but if slowing things down, savoring Lombardian wine and admiring serene lake views is your thing, you’ve come to the right place.
It’s Just Cheaper
For starters, sitting down for an espresso and a pistachio-cream-filled croissant by Piazza Garibaldi as you people-watch and a busker plays (yet another) rendition of Bella Ciao nearby––the old Italian cliche, and a quintessential one at that––will cost you under $5.
For inexpensive dinners and outstanding service, make sure you book a table at the well-frequented Ristorante Don Rodrigo.
A polenta-based dish or finely cut pasta can cost as little as $14.25.
We also love Pizzeria Da Rida for their big selection of pizzas, starting from a negligible $5.49, and Ristorante Nicolin for fine dining and special occasions: their Agnello dei Pirenei lamb and extensive wine menu are to die for.
It’s without question more upscale than the odd casual Lecco eatery, still, you should plan on spending a reasonable $45-50 on a three-course dinner accompanied by wine and a bottle of sparkling water for one––in Varenna or Bellagio, that would mean double the price.
When it comes to accommodation, Lecco is one of the least-expensive towns on Lake Como, with privately-managed B&Bs like SoloSonno listing up rooms from $73 this upcoming fall and overnights in 3-star properties Hotel Alberi and Albergo Nicolin ranging between $90 and $96.
How To Get There This Fall
Other than being more affordable and just as pretty as its Como sisters, Lecco is the perfect base for exploring the lake, with 29 trains operating to and from Varenna per day, and as many as 6 daily ferries connecting it to touristy Bellagio.
You can also get around just fine by renting a car, as a majority of Como’s lakeside towns are within short driving distance of each other, and the drive along the southeastern bank, which Lecco straddles, is one of the most scenic in the entire region.
To get to Lecco this fall, Americans will fly into Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP), the nearest airport, some 52.5 miles from the lake itself. (Explore options on Google Flights here)
Upon landing in Milan, a cultural jewel of Northern Italy home to a landmark cathedral and art museums that are worth exploring for a day on a short transit, you can easily take a direct train to Lecco from the Central Station:
The journey takes around 40 minutes, and there are as many as 58 trains a day from $6 and can be booked here.
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