Nothing screams Italy quite like the Amalfi Coast: the scenic coastal drives, colorful towns perched atop clifftops, and fine-pebble beaches hugged by turquoise seas, you name it.
There’s just one downside, though (or two, if you will): it can be unpleasantly crowded in the peak travel season, not to mention staggeringly expensive.
The cheapest hotel in Positano starts from $221 per night, and if you’re thinking of dining out in a nice restaurant in downtown Atrani, be prepared to fork out $40 at a minimum––but you’re an off-path explorer, and of course you’re cleverer than that.
You’re not like other tourists, and you know vacationing in Amalfi is not your only shot at experiencing la dolce vita:
This is…
Procida, Italy
Lying just off the mainland across from Naples, Procida is a relatively unknown island located halfway between the Capo Miseno headland and the trendy vacation hotspot of Ischia.
Despite its proximity to some awfully busy destinations, Procida is fairly calm in comparison: though you can’t exactly expect any Italian destination to be crowd-free at this point, it is definitely on the quieter end.
With its compact 1.6 square miles, comprising jagged peaks and protruding peninsulas, and 9.9 miles of combined coastline, it is one of the smallest islands off the Italian coast, but it is by no means lacking in natural and cultural attractions.
Like much of the Campania region, Procida owes its unique geography to a series of volcanic eruptions eons ago that have left it with a largely-rugged, hilly terrain: in other words, it’s paradise for hikers.
The tallest peak on the island, Terra Murata, rises 299 feet above sea level, and you can either take the moderately-challenging footpath up or catch the C2 bus leaving from Marina Grande––whether you love hikes or not, trust us, this is a mountaintop view you don’t want to miss.
Nature and culture go hand in hand in Procida, and History buffs should probably know Terra Murata houses a medieval, fortified village, the oldest on the island, but the cultural highlights don’t end here:
Procida Is Italy Before The Instagram Hordes
Marina Coriccela is the quintessential Italian postcard town, and as it is yet to be overrun by the hordes of Instagrammers––even though it’s every bit as photogenic as Sorrento or Amalfi Town––it still feels undisturbed and distinctly Italian.
Whether it’s the surprisingly hospitable locals, who won’t shy away from greeting you with genuine smiles upon entering a boutique shop, or the restaurant servers, it’s probably the last place in Italy you’d be feeling unwelcome as a tourist.
Thanks to its small size, this is also a perfectly walkable island: nearly all of the main points of interest are within 15 to 30 minutes apart, including two of the busiest settlements.
From Marina Grande, where the ferry docks, to the beautiful Marina Coriccella, where houses are painted in vibrant, cotton-candy colors and the cobblestone streets look like storybook material, it’s a short 20 minutes on foot.
If you love longer walks, this is how you should spend your time in Procida:
All Of Procida’s Highlights Are Within Walking Distance
Starting from Marina Coriccela, it takes roughly 40 minutes to walk the length of the island towards Chiaiolella, the southern harbor––alternatively, it’s a 10-minute taxi drive, but then you don’t want to miss all the hidden coves and sweeping ocean vistas along the way.
A good place to start your trek is Lingua, a sand-and-pebble beach adjacent to the main town. It is highly sought after for its crystal-clear waters, the lush vegetation that surrounds it, which provides comforting shade on particularly hot days, and the port views.
Following the coastal trail 24 minutes south, you’ll hit Procida’s most peaceful swimming spot, one day-trippers from Naples tend to skip as they’re usually using up the few hours they have in the Marina:
Chiaia Beach is a sandy strip host to the landmark La Conchiglia Restaurant.
A cozy Mediterranean eatery lining the beachfront and serving traditional Italian dishes, they’re best known for seafood pasta, freshly-caught fish and local wine, that you should expect to pay between $25 and $30 to enjoy––in an up-and-coming Italian island, that’s as cheap as you’ll get.
If you don’t mind taking a slight detour, a straight, 24-minute crossing through the hinterland on the west side of Procida, there’s Pozzo Vecchio, a scenic bay unfolding along the bright-blue Mediterranean.
Once you finally reach Chiaiolella, the southernmost tip you set out to conquer maybe 1 or 2 hours ago––this may be a small island, but definitely don’t underestimate its alluring beauty––you’ll want to cross the bridge spanning the sea, connecting Procida to the islet of Vivara.
A crescent-shaped reserve, this is your go-to spot for beating Procida’s already-moderate crowds, admiring the unspoiled coastal nature, and even fishing alongside locals (disclaimer: this is probably where your dinners will be coming from).
Procida Is A Budget-Friendly Italian Vacation
Speaking of food, for the best pizza on the island, make sure you try Pizzeria Fuego’s signature cappriciosa, costing as little as $12; to our fellow pastamaniacs, La Pergola is not to be missed, especially their mussel-and-baby-octopus linguini (only $17.54!)
As you might have noticed by now, food in Procida is far more affordable than in your usual Amalfi resort town, and the same can be said of accommodation.
Most tourists will only visit Procida as a day trip from Naples, but those staying overnight are only getting set back by $79 a night at the centrally-located Hotel Celeste (breakfast included!), or $135 at Palazzo Palumbo, less than a mile away from Chiaia Beach and its famous restaurant.
There are definitely more expensive properties for those with a proclivity for splurging, like the luxurious San Michele, with its off-white rooms and privileged location in the heart of Marina di Corricella, but on average, staying overnight in Procida costs a rather cheap $84.
Americans Get To Procida Hassle-Free This Fall
This fall, Americans can easily get to Procida by flying directly into Naples International Airport, hosting flights from New York (JFK) and Newark (EWR) until late October, with Delta and United Airlines, respectively.
Landing in Naples, a city we highly recommend you spend a couple of days exploring as it is just as authentic and underrated as Procida, you can then take the ferry to Procida from Solo Beverello Pier or Calata Porta di Massa by the main port.
Hydrofoils depart every 40 minutes throughout the day during peak times, and ticket prices range from $19.72 to $27.39.
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