Heading to Italy this fall? You may have been surprised to find prices in Rome and other tourism hotspots have not necessarily dropped as expected post-summer––nor have crowds dissipated as they normally would.
Due to the record-breaking heat, a growing number of travelers is now actively avoiding July when planning a visit, so don’t fly all the way across the pond thinking it’s a low season for tourism: the lines of people outside the Colosseum could be just as long, and hotels will still average $195 a night.
Luckily, there remains a lesser-known Italian gem that’s considerably less busy, offers cheaper room rates, has delicious $5 pizzas, and unlike Rome, is directly on the sea:
Meet Trieste, The True Pearl On The Adriatic
The capital city of Friuli Venezia Giulia, a region in the northeastern-most corner of the Italian peninsula, Trieste is one of the country’s most culturally-distinct cities.
For starters, it doesn’t fit in with a majority of its ocher-colored, narrow houses and green-shutters, cobbled counterparts: in other words, aesthetically, it’s not your typical Southern European city, though it does straddle a turquoise Adriatic.
Europe’s map is an ever-changing one, so it’s not uncommon for different cities to belong to different countries at different points in time, and Trieste is no exception:
For many centuries, before Italy became a unified state, it was administered by the Habsburg monarchy, a polity that existed between 1382 and 1918 and comprised parts of Austria, Hungary, Slovenia, and other Central European countries.
That’s a whole 536 years of accumulated Habsburg heritage, and needless to say, Trieste more closely resembles Austro-Hungarian and Slovenian influences than it does Italian.
But anyways. We digress.
Much like Central European cities, Trieste’s urban layout also revolves around a medieval Old Town, attached to a lively sea port, while the ‘new city’––still fairly old by our American standards––is quintessentially Austrian, with its stately neoclassical and Baroque additions.
What we’re trying to say is that Trieste may not be Italy exactly as you idealize it: it’s a melting pot of cultures, from Mediterranean to Germanic to Slavic civilizations, and though it exists almost on a parallel plane altogether than that of staunchly Italian Rome, that’s precisely what makes it fascinating.
What To See In Trieste
Trieste may not have a Colosseum or a temple-dotted Palatine Hill to call its own, but it’s just as ancient as your average Italian city, and it has an unusually high concentration of Roman monuments that––some might argue––are just as impressive as Rome’s.
These include a 1st-century gate, Arco di Riccardo, now etched onto a newer structure, a partially-preserved Roman theater, that used to be able to sit over 6,000 spectators, making it one of the largest on this side of Italy, and the ruins of a forum.
The Città Vecchia, or Old City, is equally deeply historical, made up of narrow streets lined by crooked, medieval houses, and it’s almost completely closed to traffic, though Trieste’s greatest architectural feats lie in the neighboring Austrian Quarter:
The ‘newer’ part of the city, built under Austrian rule, it mimics the signature neoclassicism of its former capital Vienna (with the occasional foray into Art Nouveau), and it includes the landmark Canal Grande and the Adriatic-facing Piazza Unità d’Italia, the largest seafront square in Europe.
Stunning Adriatic Beaches
The Adriatic Coast is well-known for its rocky beaches, and lining the pebbly end of the Mediterranean, Trieste is no exception, but in case you’re not exactly enthusiastic about those shingly shores, there’s a fair few sandy spots you could opt for:
Our favorite stretch of sand––dark sand, at that––near Trieste is Barcola Beach, equipped with a playground for kids and lined by casual bars and restaurants (by the way, for high-quality, inexpensive seafood ranging between $8 and $21, make sure you pay JOIA a visit).
We also love Topolini, or ‘Mickey Mouse Beach’, for its no-frills environment: you’ll find people of all ages and social backgrounds sunbathing along the Mickey ears-shaped sands as late as October, provided the weather is looking up.
Now, if you don’t mind some pebbles––and the occasional nudist––the more-secluded Costa dei Barbari, a short walk down the little road starting from the namesake cafe is where you go for some peace and quiet away from the Trieste crowds.
Trieste Is Way Cheaper Than Rome
We briefly touched on that already, but one of the biggest advantages of Trieste over Rome is how affordable it can be despite being, well, part of Europe’s most heavily-touristed, sometimes most shockingly-priced destination.
We’re telling you, you can eat delicious pasta for around $11 (check out Traktoria Rustiko), gorge on a seafood buffet from only $22 (Buffet Clai, you have our hearts), or a marinara pizza for, we kid you not, five bucks, (La Pizza di Cittavecchia is your go-to spot for those).
Oh, and just in case you’re wondering how the price of accommodation in Trieste fares compared to Rome, local hotels can be up to 38% cheaper, according to Budget Your Trip estimates:
It starts from as cheap as $26 for a hostel bed, going up to $84-86 for a room in a centrally-located hotel or B&B, and culminating with higher-end listings like the Savoia Excelsior Palace, where an overnight stay will set you back by $236––hey, that’s only $41 more than the average hotel in Rome!
Travel To Slovenia And Croatia For Only $9
Trieste is located on the northeastern-most tip of Italy, attached to the country by means of a narrow strip of land: it is in fact closer to Slovenia and Croatia than it is to other Italian destinations.
From Trieste to Lipica, a village on the Slovenian side, it’s a short 22-minute drive––crossing the short Slovene coastline, it would take you just over 40 minutes to reach Plovanija, the first border town in Croatia.
Lucky for you, you don’t need to rent a car or resort to unreliable buses to see all three countries: a new train route has recently launched, linking Trieste to its neighbors, with the former Italian-administered city of Rijeka (now in Croatia) as the final destination, and tickets starting from only $9.
Find out how to get your tickets here.
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