The Turul Project offers tongue-tickling gastro Hungarian cuisine and is the only one of its kind in London.
Hungarian meals typically brings up ideas of goulash and different spicy dishes developed over 1000’s of years of Magyar historical past. It is commonly heavy and rustic, however the meals served on the Turul Project (Turul means legendary fowl) is nothing of the kind.
The undertaking began life as a pop-up and sequence of supper golf equipment in 2018 and now has a everlasting dwelling in an Art Deco constructing subsequent to Turnpike Lane station that was as soon as a part of this station.
The restaurant is brilliant and ethereal with an open kitchen and lengthy home windows so we may see the busses coming and going, feeling happy we weren’t going wherever for the subsequent couple of hours.
The Ambience
This is okay eating but the decor is informal and easy, comprising white partitions, inexperienced painted wooden and darkish ground tiles.
At the entrance of the venue, overlooking the bustling excessive avenue and framed by out of doors seating is a deli and café stocking fine quality, ethically sourced Hungarian merchandise and a wine bar with a variety of wines, a few of that are making their debut within the UK.
Thereâs an open kitchen past which is the devoted restaurant part with vast home windows that overlook the bus station.
Food & Wine
The menu is small. It includes 4 starters, 4 important programs and simply two desserts. The 29-12 months-previous chef Levente Kappany, hails from Budapest and is the winner of 2020âs San Pellegrino Young Chef for the Central Europe Region stated he preferred bringing Hungarian flavours to British substances and providing a modernist tackle conventional dishes. Indeed, the closest factor I may discover to a goulash is the hare which is served as a stew.
We began with a goose liver paté made with a butter lowered Hungarian candy wine Tokaji Aszu. It took centre place surrounded on the plate by small balls of purple wine jelly, apple and cabbage and served with a mini brioche.
This goose liver had been whipped right into a fluffy creaminess made so by a Pakaket ice cream maker and in contrast to every other paté I’ve tasted earlier than. It was so mild and ethereal that the goose liver flavour was an echo reasonably than the same old full-on flavour of a extra densely packed paté.
The smoked trout starter comes flaked on prime of dill cream topped with a ribbon of fermented cucumber, sprinkled with caviar and doused in a velouté of liquid fermented cucumber. Those flavours are merely very good collectively.
The monkfish âPaprikasâ got here accompanied by a block of pasta layered with curd cheese and bitter cream with a flavour of intense smoky paprika jus.
The cheek of beef was tremendous soften-in-your-mouth softness served with creamy mashed potato, roasted shallot, garlic and an aggressive jus of beef inventory discount. It was excellent.
We washed all this down with a Sabar Rajnai Rizling, a w
They donât do cocktails however do have beers and a few very robust spirits. We tried certainly one of them, a Szicsek Jonathan apple Palinka which at 44 per cent it was shot with a burn. Apparently, Hungarians drink it like water. Show-offs.
Dessert was cherry sorbet with darkish chocolate cake, and a walnut dumpling served with walnut sorbet. Both have been scrumptious.
Verdict:
The chef has taken Hungarian delicacies far-off from the goulash cliche. This restaurant could also be housed in a former bus station however the meals has come from a spot the place the busses donât run. Honestly Michelin, it’s best to have a look.
Open instances
Wine Bar 3pm-10pm Tuesday to Saturday
Restaurant 6pm -10pm Tueday to Saturday.
Address: Turul Project, 1, Turnpike Parade, London N15 3LA, turulproject.com
Expect to pay round £40 to £50 per head.
