When you think of France, you probably think of Paris.
Sadly, so does every other tourist heading to the country of croissants and culture. Which means Paris is almost always full of visitors.
But if you’re looking for a French city with a more authentic and laidback vibe that’s still packed with things to see and do, then I recommend Rouen.
This hidden gem of a city is the cultural and historical capital of Normandy and is an incredible place to visit in the Fall.
Here’s why:
The Beauty of Rouen
Rouen is home to the second largest number of listed buildings in France (Paris took first place), but unlike Paris, all the main attractions are relatively close together, making it incredibly easy to explore on foot.
In fact, despite Rouen’s excellent tram and bus system, I’ve never needed to use public transport!
If you visit the center of Rouen, the first thing you’ll notice is its abundance of medieval alleys and half-timbered houses. It feels like stepping back in time.
I am typing this from my hotel room in Rouen, my second trip to this magnificent city.
But that doesn’t mean I’m biased when I talk about the beauty of Rouen! It’s stunning.
On the subject of hotels, we’re staying in the Mercure Hotel Rouen Centre Cathedrale, and I couldn’t recommend it any more.
I don’t usually recommend chain hotels, but the location just can’t be beaten. You step outside the entrance and you’re standing in front of the city’s iconic Notre Dame Cathedral. There is no hotel closer!
As an added bonus the hotel also boasts one of the best chain hotel breakfasts I’ve ever eaten.
I paid £149 ($190) per night for our stay in August, for a family of 4. For a 2-night stay in the middle of October (based on two people sharing a room) the rate would be $144 per night.
History In Rouen
Rouen is the perfect spot for history buffs.
As a firm member of the history nerd club, I think it’s an amazing place to explore.
If you want to take a historical tour of the city, then I recommend that you start at the Historial Joan D’Arc.
This is a state-of-the-art interactive museum dedicated to Joan D’Arc, and you move through huge digital exhibition rooms that tell the story of her life and death.
The room called the Salle de l’Officialite in the museum is the actual room where Joan was tried and condemned to death in 1431.
Entry costs 11 euros per person ($12) or you can get a discount ticket for a family of 4 which is 32 euros ($35) for 2 adults and 2 kids. The exhibit opens from 10am – 7pm (with last entry at 5.15pm) but arrive early to see the place at its quietest.
For an extra 2 euros ($2) per person you can add on a ticket to the L’aitre Saint-Maclou too. This is around a 3-minute walk away and is a fascinating if macabre place to explore.
The square here was used as a plague pit and the wooden frames of the building are decorated with skulls, bones, and other reminders of the time. It’s well worth the extra couple of bucks and the extra few minutes to check it out!
If you only visit one attraction during your time in Rouen, then make it the Notre Dame Cathedral. This is the symbol of the city and its most iconic spot. Its tallest spire is the highest in France and it is the 4th tallest church in the world.
Fun fact: Richard the Lionheart loved Rouen so much that his heart is buried in the cathedral.
Finally if you’re not all history’ed out then visit the Tour Jeanne d’Arc. This is an imposing tower that was built at the start of the 13th century, but now it’s home to a WW2 themed escape room experience!
You can visit all of these attractions in one day, but if you want time for relaxing, lingering in street cafes, and general people-watching then allow 2 days.
Rouen’s Laid-Back Attitude
Rouen is a relatively small city that is known for its relaxed and laid-back attitude.
You won’t find the same hustle and bustle here that you would in Paris, but you will find that the people are warmer.
You’re welcome to linger in restaurants and bars watching the world go by, and in the city’s Old Town it’s almost impossible to find a bar or café that doesn’t have an epic view.
Victor Hugo described Rouen as “the city of a hundred spires” which says everything you need to know about the views really.
If you’re looking to enjoy a local delicacy as you dine, then Rouen is famous for its Canard a la Rouennaise, this is a centuries-old roasted duck recipe.
Sadly, American travelers can’t fly directly to Rouen, but the city is pretty close to Paris, so you can use Charles de Gaulle Airport as your arrival hub.
From here the train will take around 2 hours and costs just $40. From the center of Paris the train takes 1 hour 30 minutes and prices start from $8.
It’s totally feasible to enjoy a 2 center trip, exploring the high-octane vibe of Paris before moving to the more relaxed Rouen for the end of your trip.
I’ve visited both Paris and Rouen as part of my visit to France this summer, and I’ve fallen more in love with Rouen than ever.
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