The Phoenix has risen

As our tiny Cessna 182 buzzes low over yellowing savannah and plum-red acacia gum trees, the pilot, Craig Reid, spots Africa’s most northerly elephant herd. Some 500 animals are sheltering within the safe embrace of spiny forest. A few high-spirited youngsters cavort in the thermal Sahelian heat. “You wouldn’t have seen this a decade ago,…

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